New Jack City Rock Climbing : Best Crags for First Time Leaders

We love going to New Jack City I believe it’s one of the best climbing and camping scenarios I’ve ever experienced. With little or no approach and countless routes in the 5.7 - 5.10 range it’s a dream come true for the new lead climber ready to sharpen his skills on the sharp end.  The scenery and geology of Sawtooth Canyon is amazing and always make for a trippy time.  If you are new to the area and are ready to jump right in here are some of our recommended areas to check out if you plan on spending a few days.

While there are quite a bit of moderate climbs throughout the area these are a few of the crags with a larger concentration of Kook certified climbs for the new leader.  

The Valentine Wall

This wall is right at the entrance to the canyon and offers some nice campsites right at the crag.  While it’s not the tallest crag in the area there are a few good easy climbs to warm up on and get a feel for the rock on pretty easy short climbs.  With one 5.6 and three 5.7’s and two 5.8’s it’s great little crag to get familiar with the rock at New Jack City.   

Boy Scout Wall

This is a great beginner crag “hence the name” and receives morning shade and can be quite nice on those warm spring days.  This is one of the taller crags for beginners and has tons of moderate climbs that will get you stoked.  Some recommend routes are Sam I am (5.7) and  Jack Be Nimble (5.8).  A lot of these climbs are close together so you can build anchors and top rope a lot of routes next door this way you can access some harder climbs without having to lead them.  

Raven Rocks

There are some great climbs in the Raven Rocks area but they are a bit more difficultly.  A few of the classics are Cutom Tailored (5.7), Taylor Made (5.8), Rob’s Rambunctious Ride (5.9) and if you are ready to step up to the challenge Holey Moley (5.10a) most of the rest of the climbs here are in the 5.10a range and up.  

Cliffs of Insanity

This is the tallest crag at New Jack City and definitely worth the trek out to.  These climbs can be done either in a single pitch with a 70 meter rope or as a multi-pitch option from the belay ledge (Two Bolts Up).  This is an excellent crag for a first time multi-pitch sport leader and no better place to start that Uncle Funs Basement (5.7).  If you are doing these climbs in a single pitch you will want to bring some longer alpine draws to reduce rope drag on the lower bolts. 

The Crooked Dick Spire

This is a must do route when in New Jack City.  Once you have really familiarized yourself with the rock and are feeling comfortable this is a climb you will not want to miss.  We do this climb every time we come to New Jack it’s a right of passage.  If you are setting this route up as a top rope make sure to leave the last draw in as a directional because it gets interesting at the top with a high likelihood of swinging.  Make sure to stand on the top of the spire and take in the feeling of being on top of a spire!  

I hope this helps you on your upcoming adventure out to New Jack City  

additional photos provided by @vanningaintnojoke www.vanningaintnojoke.com

Castle Lake Free Camping - Best Camping in Shasta

Castle Lake Free Camping - Best Camping in Shasta

If you are headed up I-5 on your way to or from Oregon and are curious about what to do in the Mount Shasta area, we got you covered. Castle Lake is an amazing alpine lake with amazing views and very easy access right off I-5.  While there is a pretty nice paid campsite at the lake.  There’s more free dispersed camping with way better views than the paid campsite about a mile down the road here (41.242939, -122.382676).  There are toilets at the Castle Lake day-use parking area and we have camped at the day-use area in the past but wouldn’t recommend it as it was very loud in the morning with all the day-trippers coming to enjoy the lake.  

If you have and watercraft this is the best lake for them.  We have a SUP and an inflatable kayak from Aqua Marina that we really enjoy using.  They are pretty cheap and last we’ve had them for over three years and they are still going strong.  You can check them out here.  

Castle Lake has an awesome floating dock out in the center of the lake that you can get a view of Mt. Shasta and just relax and feel the power of the planet earth’s root chakra.  There is also a waterfall that flows into the lake that you can paddle right up to.  Also if you don't have any watercraft there is an amazing short hike to an epic lookout we have more on this hike here. This is one of our favorite stopovers on our way to and from Oregon if we are driving on I-5.  It’s literally 30 minutes off the road and is such a van life gem.  If you are reading this, consider yourself blessed to have found this obscure article buried deep in the depths of the inter webs.  Happy Trails!  

15 Free Campsites Along the Oregon and California Coast

15 Free Campsites along the Oregon and California Coast. 

Before we dive into all the campsites along the way I need to forewarn you that these sites are a mixture between pull offs on the side of the road and “Day Use Areas”.  Most of the spots may be geared towards the more savvy budget road tippper or the seasoned vanlife nomad.  These spots are car/van camping specific spots.  We hope this guide is helpful in finding a few spots along the cost where a free spot can be difficult to find. We will also note here the we found California much more accommodating to find places to sleep.

Also we have a longer write up and full itinerary available here! 

Oregon HighwaY 101 

#1. Oswald West State Park (45.744721,-123.960908) 

No Toilets / Roadside Pull Off / Car Camping 

This spot is actually a viewing area/rest stop.  Take advantage of your first of many multi million dollar views from your van.  Head on over to the Neahkahnie Viewpoint for your first night, right off highway 101. Also, get used to these highway stop-over camping spots in Oregon, unless you want to fork over $35 to the State Parks.  There are no toilets here but have no fear there are plenty of options for your #2’s in Manzanita has plenty of services and restrooms just a few minutes down the hill.  

#2.  Brain Booth State Park (44.520991,-124.069295)

Drop Toilet / Day Use Area / Car Camping

Although this is a day use area you will have to use your best judgement on whether or not you wish to stay here.  We camped on the east side of the park near the river access highway 101 and we had no trouble, the secret is to get there late and leave early.  There are also pit toilets here as well so that makes life easy in the morning.  There are lots of scenic beaches in this area to checkout.  

#3.  Whiskey Run Bike Trails (43.218854,-124.342054)

No Toilets / Trailhead Parking Area / Car Camping

Per Oregon standards there was a no overnight parking sign but as usual in this secluded area we ignored the signs and stayed the night here.  It was very quite, however people did show up fairly early in the morning to ride their mountain bikes.  We rode the trails in the morning and had a blast if you have a mountain bike and want to ride some nice professionally built flowy trails this is right off the 101 and you will be stoked you stoped.  

#4 Bandon Beach Streets (43.110550,-124.432711)

No Toilets / Neighborhood Streets (Stealth) /  Car Camping

We noticed while in Bandon that most of the homes are vacation rentals.  So we thought no one would know that we are camping on their street.  Since it seemed to be low season we just stealth parked the rig above the beach on a parking space with quite the overlook.  We woke up early n the morning we headed to Face Rock State Park to use the clean and nice bathrooms and headed out of town.  

#5.  Indian Sands Trail Head (42.157399,-124.361562)

No Toilets / Day Use Area / Car Camping 

The Samual H. Boardman State Park is an incredible state park and a the most photographed area on the coast.  We explored the area the whole day, two short hikes that are worth checking out are Secret Beach and Indian Sands.  We ended up staying in the Indian Sands Day Use parking lot and once again had zero issues.  

California Highway 1

#6.  Smith River Camping (42.157399,-124.361562)

No Toilets / Roadside Pull Off / Car and Tent Camping

We found a nice spot via iOverlander right on the Smith River with access to a nice swimming hole.  We made a fire met a Basque traveler @laidagoe who joined us for some kooky adventures.  In the morning we recommend you check out Stout Grove and take the backpay out into Crescent City.  There’s plenty of short trails with some of the tallest trees in California.  

#7.  Lost Rocks (42.157399,-124.361562)

No Toilet / Roadside Beach Parking / Car Camping 

There are picnic tables and fire pits on the beach and we really enjoyed our stay.  We also went climbing in the Promontory just about 1/4 mile up the beach.  It was an amazing setting for a climb and to be able to wrap it up with a day on the beach was magical.  We gained another traveler this night and headed south after two relaxing nights at the beach.  

#8.  Moonstone Beach (42.157399,-124.361562)

Portable Toilet / Beach Camping / Car Camping 

We heard about Moonstone Beach from our friends who live in Arcata so we went to see what the hype was all about.  Upon arrival we were pretty stoked with the scenery of the beach with the Little River meeting the surging tide.  It was a great place for a swim as well as top rope climbing.  We ended up staying here two nights as well right in the parking lot.  Although people told us that we cant camp there we did and had no issues.  Just clean up your mess and be a good neighbor,  

#9.  Big Tree Grove (40.350409,-123.991959)

Portable Toilets / Trailhead Day Use Parking / Car Camping

We visited the visitor center and were told that the largest trees in the California and  The Avenue of the Giants was at Big Tree Grove.  So we headed out walked a few short walks around the grove and stayed for the night.  It was very quite here and we had no issues.  

#10.   Roadside pull over HWY 1 (39.694736,-123.798595)

No Toilets / Roadside Pull Off / Car Camping 

Once we made it to HWY 1 we were ready to prepare some food so we pulled over on one of the first pullovers we saw that was empty and we cooked some dinner and passed out.  We woke up to beautiful sunny weather the next day and tried not to launch our van off the road as we cruised the rig south.  

#11.  Point Arena Lighthouse (38.943371,-123.732553)

Portable Toilets /  Scenic View Point / Car Camping 

Here we would stay 3 nights and enjoy the iconic view of a historic lighthouse juts out of plateau where the land meets the sea.  There is plenty of opportunities for whale watching here and if you look off the rocks the seals will be living the good life laying out all day absorbing the precious vitamin D.

#12.  Sonoma Coast Road Side Pull Off (38.489223,-123.189684)

No Toilets / Roadside Pull Off / Car Camping

From here south it’s going to get tricky on finding free campsites.  The camping here is harder to find and is more likely to be roadside pullouts but there are some nice ones.  Just North of Jenner we found an amazing hill side pull out where we spent a afternoon and night watching the wales migrate while the sunset did it’s thinning the Next day we headed down to Goat Rock Beach where they have a nice large scenic parking lot, restrooms, and garbage cans… All the necessities. 

#13.  Jenner Roadside Camping (38.452503,-123.128298)

No Toilets / Roadside Pull Off / Car Camping 

After a peaceful and amazing night overlooking the ocean high up on the bluffs we headed down to the small town of Jenner about 5 miles.  We spent the day at the Goat Rock Beach Parking lot enjoying the sunshine and amenities at the beach. We also went rock climbing did some yoga and then headed up to the upper parking lot for the night.  Here we were asked to leave by the police around 8pm and we found a last second campsite just right outside of the town of Jenner on the side of the road.  Not an ideal spot but we had no issues here.  

#14.  Palomarin Trailhead (37.930389,-122.742040)

Toilets / Trailhead Day Use Parking / Car Camping 

We stocked up on all kinds of organic produce at the Bolinas Farm Stand (Highly Recommended) then we headed to the Palomarin Trailhead.  This is not by any means a free campsite and you have to be a seasoned van lifer to pull this one off without getting in trouble with the authorities.  Park Rangers came by about 3 times per day but no one patrolled the area at night.  Just don't let them catch you in the morning they will give you a ticket.

#15.  Roadside Pull off Highway 1, Near Muir Beach (37.870438,-122.590238)

No Toilets / Roadside Pull Off / Car Camping 

After two peaceful days at Palomarin we headed down to Stinson Beach for the day. Then that night we just found another road side pull over via iOverlander just a few minutes from Muir Beach which would be out destination the next day.  We were lucky it was a Sunday and the road construction crew was off and they left their portable toilet unlocked so we had a toilet but don't count on it.  

**!BONUS!**

#16.  Sausalito Parking Lot #3 (37.857649,-122.480807)

Toilets / Marina Parking / Car Camping 

From here we moved on to meet our good friend Phil aka @Sprinter_on_the_move.  He showed us a promising spot to camp for the night.  Right at the Marina in Sausalito, it was free and fairly quite for being in the city.  Not the most legal but we got away with it for the night we saw plenty of other van travelers in the parking lot so we felt safe.  

Thanks for reading if you are looking for any other activities to do in California or Oregon just click the links!  Cheers! 

Ladder Canyon, California's best Slot Canyon

This is another California desert gem that we weren't really expecting to be as amazing as it is.  Ladder Canyon is dubbed California’s best slot canyon it’s the first we've seen in Cali so we give it two thumbs up!  If you are looking for Ladder Canyon just google it and it will lead you in the right direction no need for 4WD to access the trailhead we did it in a 2WD VW Vanagon so anyone can make it.  Ladder Canyon is on BLM land so there is a 14 day camping limit, there are drop toilets on site but they are a walk so bring a shovel.  We decided to camp right at the mouth of the canyon and it was a great place to spend a few days exploring the area.  

The Ladder Canyon hike is a 4.5 mile hike that can be done in a loop.  When starting the hike keep a keen eye to hikers left where you will begin the journey up the first slot canyon.  Navigating this section requires a bit of rope climbing and there is what I would call a V0 bouldering problem that some in our group struggled with.  With a boost and a hand we were on our way past this section.  Once you top out of this canyon you will very exposed to wind and sun above the eroded desert landscape, this is where ample water and sun protection will be needed.  We were here in February and needed plenty of water along this stretch of the hike.  If you are here in the summer it’s going to be a scorcher so be prepared!  

Once you top out you can hike to the summit for amazing views of the desert or you can begin navigating your way down ladder canyon.  You will drop down into a canyon and eventually come up on a series of ladders to help you get down into the slot canyon this is where the canyon gets the most narrow and really gives you that Utah/Arizona slot canyon feel.  You will exit back into the large canyon you started in.  There are more off shoots all around this area and you may need more that a day to explore all this area has to offer.  

Remember when camping to pack it in, and pack it out.  Lets keep these amazing BLM areas natural.  Happy Trails! 

New Jack City Camping and Climbing

We got the opportunity to jump on board a climbing trip with Lee (@freedomthevanbulance) and Steve (@freetired) there was no way we were going to turn this adventure down.  New Jack City (aka Sawtooth Canyon) is a sport climbing playground just a few miles outside of Barstow, California.  New Jack City has over 450 sport climbs varying from 5.6 to 5.13 on a volcanic like metamorphic rock.   All the climbs are found in clusters of awesome formations poking out along the high desert of California.  Since we are beginner climbers this was a great area to get our feet wet.

Prior to this trip we solely top roped, thanks to our talented climbing friends leading all the routes.  But this trip was different thanks to the expertise of Steve and Lee we were going to learn to top rope, clean, and repel.  I don't think the atmosphere could have been more perfect we were able to park our van right at the base of a 5.6 and get lessons out our front door.  Most of the routes here are short and exposure usually isn't an issue so it was a great place to learn without being absolutely petrified.  

One of the highlights of the trip was climbing “The Crooked Dick Spire” which was our first ever spire to climb and at 5.9 it wasn't too difficult to the whole crew got to top the spire.  One of our favorite things about New Jack City is that every zone had plenty of climbs for the whole crew to do.  Another good wall for learning was the “Boy Scout Wall” which had climbs of varying difficulties from 5.7 to 5.11c all the climbs on this wall were fun solid climbs and we couldn't recommend New Jack City more for camping and climbing.  

The camping here is also as awesome as the rock climbing.  There are shade structures at most the campsites along with pit toilets.  This is on BLM land so there is a 14 night limit.  We really enjoyed climbing right outside of the vans every morning after it warmed up.  We came in early march and it was still a bit chilly mid 50s but that didn't stop the kooks from crushing some routes.  

Best Views of Shasta Just minutes off I-5 | Castle Lake Overlook

If you have ever driven up I-5 form California to Oregon there’s no way you missed the overwhelming beauty of Mount Shasta.  Shasta is a massive strata volcano that juts out of the earth to an elevation of 14,179 making it the tallest Volcano in California.  Lucky for you we have an easy way to get amazing views of the Volcano just 15 minutes off of Interstate 5.  

The Castle Lake overlook is a short out and back around 3 miles long to one of the most rewarding views considering how short the approach is.  

Park in the Castle Lake parking lot from here you will take Little Castle Lake Trail (#4W02) after just under a mile the trail will split off to the Castle Lake Overlook trail.  You have to have a keen eye to see the turn off.  You don't want to hike to far on the Little Castle Lake Trail otherwise you will end up on the wrong side of Castle Lake and be on your way to Little Castle Lake.  Just remember that you want to be on the ridge lookers right while you are hiking up the trail.  If the kooks figured this out so can you.  

On the way up there is also an amazing photo opportunity on the right conditions at a reflection pond, here you can test your photography skills and snap a beautiful shot of Shasta’s peak reflecting off the glassy water in the tarn.  Once at the top of the overlook you will feel very rewarded for the short hike you just conquered.  Take a few moments here snap a few memories and head back down about 1.5 miles to the lot.  

Depending on time of year camping is ok as well in the parking lot we stayed for a day in October and enjoyed amazing fall colors on our drive out.  There are pit toilets at the lot and I would imagine kayaking or SUPing would be an awesome activity on a calm day.  Also as always pack it in, pack it out!  Let’s keep these places free and wild!  

If you are driving up I-5 and are looking for a great day activity, or a place to crash this is an amazing place to spend the day there are more hikes in the area so do a little bit of research and you could find yourself on a backpacking adventure.  

4 Family Friendly Activities to do at Yosemite National Park

Traveling can connect you with all walks of life.  While we were traveling in San Diego we met @lifeofkuhl a Canadian family of 5 traveling the Western US and Baja, Mexico, while homeshchooloing the 3 children.  We me them at he SoCal van gathering and had traveled with them all the way to Vail, Colorado before we parted ways.  

One of our stops with the Kuhl’s along our epic road trip was in Yosemite National Park in May.  This was a great time to visit the park it was just before school was out and before busy holiday weekends, and most importantly fire season so it was clear and the crowds weren't too hectic. If you’re heading to Yosemite here are a few family friendly activities that the kids will love.   

Glacier Point 

We came in from Kings Canyon so our first stop was Glacier Point in my mind a mandatory Yosemite stop for sunset this is a family friendly activity the view are amazing (some of the best on earth) and there is little hiking involved (0.5 mile) to get them. There is plenty here to keep the kids busy and entertained.  If you are looking for more head to the Sentinel Dome trail (2.6 Miles Moderate) for something to really get the kids tired. 

Biking

Yosemite Valley has a 17 mile bike trail (Valley Loop Trail) that goes around the entire valley.  While you don't have to ride the 17 mile ride you can bike to a few places for the kids to hang out.  You could make a short bike ride from Half Dome Village to the Merced River to cool off or bike to Yosemite Falls this trail will let you access plenty of family friendly hikes and places to enjoy the valley views. 

Hiking

There are plenty of easy but entertaining trails in the valley for the whole family to enjoy.  While with the Kuhl's we hikes a number of trails.  We started the day off with shuttle ride from Half Dome Village to Lower Yosemite Falls (1.0 Mile Easy) There were plenty of boulders and side trails that the kids enjoyed.  We then headed across the valley to Mirror Lake Trail (4 miles easy) here were hung out set up hammock and the kids found a rock to jump off and swim in the lake.  After that that was enough to get the adults and kids pretty tired.  

During busy season head to Tuolumne Meadows on the east side of the park. Lembert Dome Trail (2.3 Miles Moderate) is a great hike for families and has a major pay off at the end. This is a uphill climb but it is worth every step the kids will love the wide open granate surfaces to scramble on.

Float the Merced

This was something that we weren't prepared enough for but now we are after purchasing our Intex Challenger K1’s.  The Kuhl’s had two stand up paddle-boards and inflatable rafts (their Canadian) but we didn't and the price to rent was out of our budget.  However knowing this we are passing the information on to you to be prepared with rafts or SUPs if you are there in late spring the river looked amazing.  You will also need to arrange a pick up vehicle since they charge you on the shuttle so plan ahead.  I believe the start is near Half Dome Village and ends at Swinging Bridge.  

tunnel view yosemite national park

tunnel view yosemite

tunnel view yosemite np

half dome glacier point yosemite

Few Items we use to shoot our adventures

Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 Art DC HSM Lens for Canon

SIGMA

Buy on Amazon

Sony Alpha a6500 Mirrorless Digital Camera w/ 2.95" LCD (Body Only)

SOAB9

Buy on Amazon